Drive to Whangarei Tuesday - January 28, 2014

TUESDAY – JANUARY 28, 2014

BOTTOM LINE:

Leave Paihia and drive south to Whangarei

BACK STORY:

After packing our bags and storing them at the hostel we took off for a long walk to the Waitangi Treaty Grounds where the Maori Natives and Europeans signed a peace treaty and established New Zealand.

By the time that we arrived we found that residents were free and visitors were to pay $25 each!  We had such a short time before we needed to head back that we passed on the entry.  The tours would have taken at least 2 hours.

 

Waitangi Beach

Treaty Plaque

 Once back to Paihia we stopped at el Café owned by Javier.  We had stopped by for dinner three times and each time we were told that the café was closing. Today we stopped for lunch.  We had wanted to try the advertised Mexican looking menu.  We found that the owner was from Chile and was more than happy to share information about our impending visit.  The prawn empanada was delicious and Bruce said that his quesadilla was as well.

We took a business card and asked for the name of any cafes in Chile that Javier might recommend. We thought it would be fun if we visited the restaurant and extended well wishes from Javier in New Zealand!  We promised to circle back with a post card from Chile.  Fun!

We returned to the hostel where the Kiwi Experience bus was waiting for people to load their possession and grab a seat for our trip south.  We needed to load our luggage last as we would be the first ones to be dropped off in the town of Whangarei.  The rest of the bus would be headed to Auckland.

There were five young men that were waiting to load onto the bus that were not on the bus driver’s list.  The bus was full and had to leave them behind.  It is very important in traveling like this to confirm and reconfirm the pick up date and time with the Kiwi Experience main office.  They young men had not followed protocol.

We checked into the 1928 hostel that we had stayed at before…it was like being home again.

The Rock Day Tour Monday-January 27, 2014

MONDAY – JANUARY 27, 2014

BOTTOM LINE:

The Rock Day Tour

BACK STORY:

There is a relatively new tour offered in the Bay of Island called The Rock Tour.  The offering is for a day outing or an over night experience.  The Rock refers to the largest houseboat in New Zealand.  It is a salvaged auto ferry that has been converted into a houseboat.  The upper levels are the bedrooms and the lower level is for socializing and staging water activities.

We were picked up at the Paihia Wharf at 8:30am and shuttled over to the location of The Rock in the Bay of Islands.  The boat was waiting for us and welcomed us with a human arbor that we walked under.  We immediately felt at home and a part of the 18 passenger boat.  The four person crew headed by Ronan the Captain were warm and attentive offering breakfast, coffee and tea.

The Rock

 

Bruce and Cptn. Ronan

Inside the Rock

Boat bell

Ship lantern

 After pulling up anchor we were off to find a calm cove for snorkeling.  The wind was changing directions and building some swells in the bay.  Ronan found a cove and all interested swimmers were encourage to head to the back of the boat to prepare.  I asked what the water temperature was and was told once again that it was 70 degrees.  The wet suits offered were shorty’s Bruce wasn’t going to be left out so he borrowed a wet suit and fins to go with the mask and snorkel he brought from home. I played photographer!

Bruce snorkeling

Back of boat

On board I met and shared conversation with our first adult US travelers!!!  The husband graduated from Carlmont High School, a rival of my school.  The wife, Marsha was a clothing designer and had designed the “razor back” in 1967 while working for Esprit in SF.  They live in San Anselmo and were in New Zealand visiting Charlie’s brother.

Snorkelers were in within 30 minutes.  Bruce said that the clarity was about 10 feet and there was very little to look at.  He was asked to collect a number of sea urchins that would be served later for a snack (fresh uni!!!).

With everyone accounted for, the boat was moved to a beautiful beach on the northwest tip of Moturua Island. 

beach for the day

Across from us was Roberton Island that’s history holds a tragic death story of two Maori natives.  To this day no one knows for certain whether they were forced to leap or were pushed over a cliff to their death. (the light brown side of the island is the spot in the picture).  The father of the 22-year-old man, who was put in charge of protecting the natives turned in his son, convinced that he was responsible for their deaths and should pay for the crime.  He was found guilt and hung.

Roberton Island

The first activity on the island was to climb to the top of the island for an incredibly beautiful view of both sides of the island.  Indeed the view was gorgeous…in fact to view of the northwest side with a protected cove and the Hole in the Rock in the distance is my favorite water view of the trip!!!

There was a private house up from the cove in the trees that I would be very happy house sitting for the people.

cove at Mortorua Island

 

Pacific side of island

 

Speaking of houses, we passed an accommodation up on a cliff earlier.  The captain pointed it out saying that it was one of the most exquisite luxury accommodations in the world costing $20k per day!!!

While at the beach we were free to look for shells, relax, swim or play cricket.  Bruce was delight to try his first cricket game and loved it!

  

Bruce playing his first game of Cricket!

  










  


The sports of choice for New Zealand are rugby, cricket, tennis, sailing and fishing.  With all of the natural beauty and ruggedness of the country the locals seem to enjoy the thrill of a challenge.  The higher the risk, the better the challenge.  The adrenaline rush has to exist in the challenge, which is why sky-diving, bungy jumping, etc. are big here.  At times safety doesn’t seem to be a concern.

3 kinds of seaweed

shell rosette on kelp

Once back on board, lunch was served and we were off on our return trip to the wharf.  Everything had a lesson.  On the way back to dock they brought out the sea urchins that Bruce had collected.  As they spoke about the urchin they offered fresh uni to anyone willing to try it.

 

inside sea urchin, UNI

God was good in granting another beautiful day to enjoy the beauty of this wonderful north island.  Weather forecast had been for 40% chance of rain!

As we made it to the cove for shuttling back to the wharf a sea gull landed on the motor used for the inflatable.  The crew shared the story that the gull was rescued seven years earlier with a fishhook in its leg.  Once healed and let go, the gull returns to the boat every afternoon to just check in…and of course get any fishing scraps!  They named him Mr. Trumpie.

Mr. Trumpie

Bruce fishing in Bay of Island, Sunday - January 26, 2014

SUNDAY – JANUARY 26, 2014

BOTTOM LINE:

Bruce went fishing

Barb went to church and waited for Bruce’s return

BACK STORY: 
Bruce decided to join a fishing charter into the bay and met the crew about 8:30 in the morning.

I on the other hand decided to enjoy a quiet morning and try the Anglican service at the same church we had attended the night before.  I received some misinformation and showed up to the church a half hour late.

As I creeped into the church, there was a commotion in the pew across from my seat.  A man was having a heart attack!  It was a very humid morning and the old stone church seemed especially hot so as people aided the man I asked that the windows be opened for a bit of cross ventilation.

Because Paihia is a small community, it took the emergency vehicle about 30 minutes to arrive.  I believe that the man will be all right, but he looked very ashen as he left.  I kicked myself for not bringing my day pack with me.  I carry a small bag of powdered aspirin for such occasions to be used sublingually.

It was a rainy, stormy day.  I had promised Bruce that I would be at the dock when he arrived.  After walking around the town looking in all shops of interest, I returned to the hostile to wait.

A little Korean friend that we had befriended on the Cape Reinga tour was visiting me before her bus left for Auckland.  She wanted to give us a card that she had written to us…thanking us for being so kind to her!  What a lovely gift of kind words!  We will keep in touch.

Bruce got back to the hostel about 2pm carrying a bag of snapper fish fillets. Although the weather could have been better, the fishing was great.

I went next door to a café that we had eaten dinner ate for the past two evenings to inquire as to whether they would cook the fish for us.  There was no BBQ available at the hostel and the kitchen was not something that I wanted to cook in.  The gal who had served us the night before and taken a liking to us said that they would be happy to grill it for us and serve it with salad and chips (fries) for $10.  The deal was on.

Bruce's catch for 2 meals

At 7pm we walked over to the café that was already packed and had a great three-piece band playing music. The three-day holiday weekend for New Zealand was coming to an end and people were ramping up for their return home.  It also signaled the end of the six-week summer break for kids who would be returning to school.

The fish was prepared wonderfully and there was more than enough to pack up for another full meal.  Thank you, Bruce!

Russell Saturday - January 25, 2014

SATURDAY – JANUARY 25, 2014

BOTTOM LINE:

Take ferry across bay to the town of Russell

BACK STORY:

Having had a full day of fresh air and boat ride on Friday, we decided to sleep in and have a low-key day.

About noon we took a cute local ferry over to the town of Russell.  Russell sits on a lovely aqua cove within the Bay of Islands.  Most think that Russell was the first capitol of New Zealand and is an island…neither, which are true.

Ferry to Russell

cove that Russell sits on

   

 

Tall ship at Russell

First Catholic mission by French

Russell is a finger of the main north island.  The first capitol is down the road from Russell.  Russell’s true claim to fame is it’s beauty and quaint English cottage feel.

The waterfront is lined with shade trees and lawn that extends to the sandy beach. Roads near the water are narrow and historic buildings are well preserved. The quiet seaside village is very conscious of its heritage and is concerned with preserving that historic character and natural beauty for visitors to enjoy.  We did while walking around and enjoying a simple lunch at an outdoor café.

Quaint Russell

 

tree lined street of Russell

 

 

 

 

Historical church and cemetery

 

Whaling ship

Locals in period clothing

We caught a ferry back to Paihia where we wanted to attend a mass at the only church in town.  During the service we realized that the Catholics rent space from the Anglicans who own the church.  The service was filled with farewell sentiments for the Priest who apparently was leaving the community within the week for an assignment in the Philippians.

Bay of Island Tour Friday-January 24, 201

FRIDAY – JANUARY 24, 2014

BOTTOM LINE:

Move to Base Pipi Patch Hostel (put luggage into locked storage shed)

Cream Tour of Bay of Islands

BACK STORY:

With a hopeful forecast we opened our drapes and found a clear and sunny morning!  We had booked an all day tour of the Bay of Islands with the promise of swimming with the dolphins.

After having a quick breakfast and packing lunch to go, we headed down to the Paihia Wharf for a 9:30am boat departure.  Our tour was called “The Cream” and followed the route of the boats that used to delivery “cream” to the islands in the bay.

Paihia Beach from wharf

 

The Cream Tour boat

The first exciting stop was to find a large pod of dolphins to swim with.  The government has very strict restrictions to boats and humans bothering dolphins in the wild.  Each boat has a scheduled time to be in a specific area where a pod might be.  If there are any babies in the pod all “swimming” by humans is forbidden.

Bottlenose Dolphin jumping

  

Bottlenose dolphins playing in the wild

The captain of the boat didn’t need to search very hard before we were among a huge pod of Bottlenose Dolphins.  I find dohlphins so interesting.  Besides being very intelligent they have the ability to chose and change their sex during their life.  They also can bring about fertility or not during their life. They do not mate with the same dolphin for life.  The mother stays with the baby and the males tend to protect them.  

The dolphins on our tour were so much fun to watch and it was almost like they knew that they had an audience.  They were jumping up in the air splashing, rearing up and walking on their tail fin, rolling, calling to one another etc.  It was determined that there were babies among the pod, so their “show” would have to suffice and it did.  I couldn’t help taking pictures out of amazement…definitely a highlight of our trip to the Northland!!!

At play

 

free in the wild

Next we were to make a birthday gift “drop” at a privately owned island.  Years ago twenty people had the privilege of buying an island.  Because the island is across a small strait from the mainland a cable was extended to supply electricity.  The island has a farm on it which homeowners all share.  Most of the homes are for holiday use, although some live full time on the island.

 

Privately owned island

 

life on your own island!

Around the back side of the island was a spire of rock with some birds perched on top.  As we quietly approached the captain explained that they were decoy “Gannet” birds that conservationists were trying to get to nest there.  They had two couples inhabit the area this year so they are hopeful.

  

Gannet decoys

 

Native Gannet birds

The Gannet bird mates for life and is an incredible swimmer and diver for fish. They appear to fall out of the sky during their dive.  The diving is good for food, but the pressure of each dive eventually causes them to go blind.  Without sight, they starve and die.

A volcanic rock formation in the bay called the Black Rocks was our next stop.  The texture resulting from the cooling of the lava in the salt water was very interesting and worth a look.

 

 

Black Rocks

Black Rock formations

Marsden Cross and Assassination Cove were the next two stops.  All of the  places we stopped were filled with some historical fact or story usually involving European explorers and indigenous Maori people…some good and some not so good. Assassination Cove speaks for itself.

A swimming and lunch break were spent on the island of Motourua at a beautiful beach.  Bruce was brave and did some snorkeling in the 70+ degree water.  I watched from the beach!  I also had a view of the colorful spinnakers of the sailing regatta going on in the bay. 

Regatta in Bay of Islands

 

Beach at Motorua Island

Bruce trying the water

With many other stops and stories the captain finished off the ride with a visit to the famous Motukokako or Hole in the Rock Island.  The island sits at the mouth of the bay and the Pacific Ocean.  The constant tidal and weather changes beating water against the rocks have worn tunnels or holes in the island.  The one visible to us is large enough that our captain took the boat through it!  A short lighthouse alerts travelers of the Hole in the Rocks presence at the opening of the bay.

Light House

Hole in the Rock formation

Hole in the Rock

 

The day could not have been more perfect.  The weather, stunning views and information shared enhanced the time spent on board and gave us a greater appreciation for the Northlands of New Zealand.