Gants Head "DOWN-UNDER" 10/31/13-2/6/14: Day 2, World Heritage Cruise Sat.

SATURDAY – DECEMBER 21, 2013

BOTTOM LINE:

Day 2 – World Heritage Cruise

BACK STORY:

Our guide and driver Trent had asked that we be ready to roll at 8am. Although we upgraded our room, it did not include a private bathroom. I had a restless night thinking that I should get up and take my shower and do my hair before the bathroom became crowded in the morning. I finally got up at 5am…burrrr!

The tour group provided breakfast so once that was finished we were shuttled down into town to catch the World Heritage Cruise into Maquarie Harbor, cruise through Hells Gate, visit a fish farm, hike onto Sarah Island, have lunch, cruise up the Gordon River, hike through a rainforest and return around 3pm to where we began. The tour was optional and cost $80pp.

The Eagle was the name of our ship and was a beautiful cat boat which won worldwide fame by towing 145 water skiers behind the boat at the same time. Although the water was choppy, the boat was very smooth…I didn’t get sick!

Bruce and The Eagle

Captain Troy Grining

Maquarie Harbor is a good sized harbor but is brown from tannins washing down from rain waters high in the mountains. Captain Troy Grining asked us to think about the brown as being tea! Although the harbor is large, the entrance is very narrow flanked by rocky cliffs. There are two lighthouses to aid boats, but for ships it is plain dangerous.

Maquarie Harbor Lighthouse

Hell's Gate

The entrance to the harbor is called Hell’s Gate and not because the gate is “like hell getting through with a boat” but because those people that passed through the gate knew that their prison life was going to be like hell!

Prior to us leaving on this trip Bruce began reading a history book on Australia and more specifically the penal colonies set up by Britain in the 1800’s. Tasmania had two of the harshest facilities, one on Sarah Island and later one at Pt. Arthur. This tour included a visit to Sarah Island.

Sarah Island, Historic Prison Camp

Criminals who were shipped to Sarah Island knew that they were there to be disciplined to the harshest extent possible for their crimes. The intent of the magistrate was to break the spirit of the prisoner in whatever manner necessary. The “maquarie cat” was used for flogging and with one lash they would draw blood. Most lashings were between 15 and 50.

Ruins of 3x6x6 prison cells

Penitentiary

Prisoners were on the Island for hard labor so the first order was to cut down all Huon pine trees in the surrounding area to us for shipbuilding. The prisoners also made bricks for building structures and sandstone slabs out of rock in the area.

Solitary confinement for some was spent in a 3’x6’x6’ cell having no windows so that the thick darkness, silence and isolation would make them go mad.

The ships that were made from the prisoners were pristine ocean going vessels. They were made of huon pine lumber that they cut and milled. The wood was strong and contained an oil that would repel weevils and barnacles from taking hold.

Huon Pine tree

There was something very solemn about our visit. It was almost like I could hear the screams of pain and torture in the wind. Britain’s harsh treatment of the men is inconceivable. I fail to see what it accomplished.

On the way to the Gordon River, we visited a huge salmon and ocean trout fish farm out in the harbor. The fish holding tanks are made of netting. The fingerlings take 3 years to mature for harvest. The nets are replaced every year. There are under water cameras, which are used to monitor fish compost. Fish are fed with big water cannons. Predators like birds and seals have become problematic and are a real chore to keep in control.

Tranquil Gordon River

A beautiful buffet luncheon was served, which included smoked salmon.

After lunch the captain made his way up the tranquil waters of the Gordan River to Heritage Landing where we disembarked for a hike up into a tree walk before heading back to Strahan where we began. Sightings of the towering mountains made for a wonderful cruise back.

Frenchman's Cap

Stepping off the ship the Morrison’s Huon Pine Sawmill was in operation to watch and hear how lumber was milled in the old days.

We had just enough time to catch our breath before we headed back into town to see the play, “The Ship That Never Was.” With a two-person act they cleverly pulled in about a dozen audience members to play different characters. Bruce and I were picked. It was excellent and made for a lot of fun time.

At the play

Walking to the town center, we found one food option for dinner. We placed our order and while we waited, we walked to the city park where community members had organized a Christmas Carole sing a long. Strahan is a small community so it was sweet to see the people turn out for a celebration.